We carry the following white color temperatures across our flexible strip line:

• 2700K — Warmer White (candlelight, deeply residential)
• 3000K — Warm White (the most popular residential choice)
• 3500K — Neutral White (balanced, neither warm nor cool)
• 4000-4200K — Pure White (crisp, office-quality neutral)
• 6000-6500K — Cool White (garages, salons, workshops)

For color-changing, we offer RGB, RGBW (3000K white), RGBCCT (2700K-6500K tunable), Tunable White, and Dim-to-Warm options. Some specialty configurations are not listed online. Contact design@inspiredled.com for customer requirements.

Kelvin (K) measures color temperature, how warm or cool the light appears, from candlelight yellow at 2700K to bright daylight white at 6500K. It has nothing to do with brightness.

Lumens (lm) measure the actual quantity of light produced aka the brightness. These are completely independent specs. A warm 3000K strip can be dim or very bright depending on its LED density. When you want more light, look at lumens per foot, not Kelvin.

Not in any meaningful way. Within the same strip density, a cooler color temperature may produce 5-15% more lumens, which is a difference barely visible to the naked eye. The real driver of brightness is LED density: the number of LEDs packed per foot. Moving from a Normal Bright (9 LEDs/ft, 65lm/ft) to a Mega Bright (36 LEDs/ft, 260 lm/ft) at the same warm 3000K gives you four times the brightness. never sacrifice the color temperature you love just to gain a marginal lumen increase.

CRI (Color Rendering Index) measures how accurately a light source shows the true colors of objects compared to natural sunlight, on a scale of 0-100. A high CRI means paint colors look true, food looks appetizing, and skin tones appear natural. A CRI below 80 can makes colors appear dull or off. 
For residential and most commercial applications, we recommend CRI 90 or above. Our COB strips and Mega bright series achieve CRI 92-97, among the highest available in flexible LED strips.

COB (Chip-on-board) strips pack 144 LEDs per foot into a continuous, unbroken line of light versus traditional SMD (Surface Mount Diode) strips that space discrete LED chips at intervals. The result is a perfectly smooth, dot-free glow with no hot spots or shadows, even at close viewing distances. COB is the recommended choice for any installation where the strip itself may be visible including under cabinets, in coves, in slat walls, or along shelving.
We offer 12V and 24V COB strips across color temperatures from 2700K warmer white through 6000K cool white, as well as RGBW COB and RGBCCT COB for color-plus-white applications.

The voltage determines how long a strip can run from a single power feed before brightness starts to drop off (called voltage drop). Voltage drop varies by product. make sure to check out our Power Requirements Charts for detailed information.

For most under-cabinet or short accent runs: 12V. For anything longer, multi-zone commercial installs, or cove lighting: 24V. When in doubt, 24V five you more flexibility.

RGB strips produce color by mixing red, green, and blue channels. They can simulate white light, but the result has poor color accuracy (CRI 40-60) and reduced brightness compared to a real white LED.

RGBW strips add a dedicated white chip alongside the color channels. This white chip produces genuine high-CRI white light (CRI 80-95) at full brightness, while still giving you all RGB color capability. For any space where you want both color effects and real white lighting then RGBW is the right choice.

Yes. Inspired LED products meets the following certifications:

• CSA C22.2 No. 250.0-08 / ANSI/UL Standard 1598, 3rd Editions — Luminaires
• UL Standard 8750, 1st Edition — LED Equipment for Lighting Products
• CSA C22.2 No. 250.13-14 — LED Equipment for Lighting Applicaitons
• ANSI/UL Standard 2108, 1st Edition — Low Voltage Lighting Systems

LED strips generate very little heat compared to incandescent, halogen, of fluorescent lighting and can be handled safely even after extended operation.

COB LED strips may feel warmer to the touch than standard strips due to the epoxy coating over the LEDs. This coating traps and distributes heat more evenly across the surface, so a warmer feel is normal and expected during operation.

For best longevity, avoid mounting strips in sealed or unventilated enclosures where heat can accumulate, especially for higher wattage applications or long continuous runs. Mounting the strips in an aluminum channel is recommended, as it helps dissipate heat and supports overall system performance and lifespan.

Our flexible LED strips are rated for 50,000 to 100,000 hours of operation depending on the product. In practice, the LED driver typically reaches its rated lifespan first (25,000-50,000 hours for quality commercial-grade units). LED lifespan also depends on operating temperature. Running strips in well-ventilated conditions at rated loads significantly extends longevity.

Yes. Our outdoor-rated strips carry IP64 or higher ratings for moisture resistance. Currently, ourdoor flexible strips are available in 12V. For 24V outdoor or specialty outdoor applications, contact our design team at design@inspiredled.com. We can assist with custom project specifications!

• Pro Series 21 LED Panel:75″ × 0.50″ × 0.30″ — 0.4 oz
• Pro Series 42 LED Panel:75″ × 0.50″ × 0.30″ — 0.7 oz
• 10″ Designer Series Panel: 10″ × 0.87″ × 0.75″ — 1.1 oz
• 18″ Designer Series Panel: 18″ × 0.87″ × 0.75″ — 1.9 oz
• Custom Designer Series: Custom length × 0.87″ × 0.75″
• Custom Radiant Edge: Custom length × 0.96″ × 0.85″
• Single Color Flexible Strips: 8mm wide × custom length
• Color Shifting or Color Changing Strips: 12mm wide × custom length

A constant voltage (CV) driver converts 120V AC wall power to a regulated DC output, of either 12V or 24V, that your LED strip requires. Yes, you need one. Every LED strip installation requires a properly matched driver. The driver output voltage must match your strip voltage exactly, and the driver’s wattage rating must meet or exceed your total strip load (always add a 20% buffer).

Formula: (Watts per foot × total feet) × 1.25 = minimum driver wattage. Always round up to the next standard driver size.

Example: 20 feet of strip at 3.0W/ft = 60W total × 1.25 = 75W minimum. Choose a 96W or 100W driver. Never run a driver at 100% of its rated capacity, as this causes overheating and premature failure.

No — never. Applying 12V to a 24V strip results in very dim output or no output at all. Applying 24V to a 12V strip immediately overdrives the LEDs, causing rapid failure or instant burnout. Voltage must always match between your strip and your driver.

Yes — provided you use a dimmable driver. There are several dimming methods:

• PWM inline dimmer: Installs on the low-voltage wire between driver and strip. Simplest option — no wall wiring required. Great for plug-in setups.
• Triac / phase-cut wall dimmer: Replaces your existing wall switch. Requires a triac-compatible dimmable driver. Check the manufacturer’s approved dimmer compatibility list before purchasing.
• 0–10V dimming: Professional/commercial protocol. Smooth, precise dimming from a building control panel or smart system.
• Smart / wireless: App, voice, or remote control dimming via compatible smart drivers and controllers.

Important: plug-in power supplies cannot be dimmed via a wall switch, only via a low-voltage inline dimmer. Non-dimmable drivers must never be connected to a dimmer switch of any kind.

We carry Lutron DVLV-600P Diva dimmers for our Magnetic Transformers and Lutron CFL/LED 153-P dimmers for our Electronic Transformers. Using an unlisted dimmer risks flickering, buzzing, or driver damage. View our full approved dimmer list before purchasing.

A faint hum is normal in magnetic transformers at higher wattages. This is inherent to the magnetic transformers coil design. For electronic drivers, buzzing typically indicates one of three things: the driver is overloaded (load exceeds its wattage rating), an incompatible dimmer is creating electrical noise, or the driver is a low-quality unit with poor filtering. Verify your load does not exceed 80% of the driver’s rating and confirm your dimmer is on the approved compatibility list.

Yes. Wire each strip run in parallel from the driver — positive to positive, negative to negative. The combined wattage of all runs must not exceed 80% of the driver’s rated output. Keep each individual run within its recommended maximum length to avoid voltage drop at the strip ends.

Yes. There are several hardwiring options:

1. Wire a compatible wall dimmer to one of our dimmable transformers and connect via in-wall cable.
2. Wire the wall switch to a switched outlet and plug in the power supply, then add a low-voltage inline dimmer.
3. Use existing under-cabinet wiring from fluorescent lights: install a dimmable transformer to convert 120V AC to 12V or 24V DC, then connect to your LED strips.

Note: 120V AC line-side connections must be made by a licensed electrician in most jurisdictions. The low-voltage DC side is safe for DIY.

Yes, for most homeowners. The low-voltage DC side of the system — mounting the strip, connecting to the driver output, wiring a dimmer — operates at 12V or 24V DC, which is safe to handle without a license in most U.S. jurisdictions. The 120V AC line-side connection (plugging into an outlet or hardwiring to a circuit) may require a licensed electrician depending on your local code. When in doubt, DIY the low-voltage side and hire an electrician for the AC connection only.

LED strips can only be cut at the designated cut marks, which are the black lined going through the copper pads, spaced at regular intervals along the strip (every 3 or 6 LEDs depending on the series). Cut straight across the center of the copper pad with sharp scissors. Never cut between cut marks as it will disable the LEDs in that segment and it cannot be reversed. Measure to the nearest available cut point, not to your exact desired length.

It depends on strip voltage and wattage. Recommended max lengths can be found on the Power Requirements Charts.

For longer runs, feed power from both ends of the strip, or add a power injection point mid-run. Switching from 12V to 24V is also an effective solution for longer continuous runs.

Yes, using solderless connectors or soldered wire leads. However, the total run from the power supply still cannot exceed the maximum recommended length. Chaining strips without power injection simply extends the run — it does not reset the voltage drop. For runs longer than the recommended maximum, use power injection at multiple points, not just additional strip connections.

Yes. Cut only at the marked copper pad cut points. When soldering, apply heat briefly and carefully as prolonged heat can delaminate the copper pad or damage the LEDs in adjacent segments. We offer pre-cut, pre-terminated strips in our shop if you prefer a no-solder solution. Contact us if you need a specific custom length.

Interconnect cables are 22 AWG and designed for low-voltage connections between LED components. They are not rated for in-wall routing.

In-wall cables are 18 AWG Class 2, rated for installation inside walls per NEC requirements. If you are routing cable through walls, drywall, or conduit, use in-wall rated cable only. We offer screw terminal connectors to join in-wall cable to your LED strip or driver.

Yes. Existing under-cabinet fluorescent wiring can power LED strips but you must first convert the line from 120V AC to 12V or 24V DC. Install a compatible dimmable transformer between the wall switch and the LED fixtures. Once the voltage is converted, connect to your LED strips using screw terminal connectors or by splicing an interconnect cable to the existing wire. See our hardwire guidelines for a wiring diagram.

We stock interconnect cables in 4″, 1′, 2′, 3′, 6′, and 12′ lengths. Custom cable lengths are also available. You can also customize the plug-in power supplies output cable for $5 extra. This allows you to call out any length, and we will make that modification prior to shipment.

Yes. Multiple wireless dimmers operating on the same frequency will control the same zone simultaneously. If you need independent zone control, use our Multi-Zone Dimmer with Wireless Remote, which allows separate zones to be controlled from a single unit.

Flexible strips adhere cleanly to the flat undersides of IKEA cabinet interiors. For under-cabinet task lighting, our Ultra Bright or Mega Bright series at 3000K–3500K is the most popular choice. For interior glass cabinet or cove lighting where a softer look is preferred, Normal Bright or Super Bright at 2700K–3000K works well. Contact our design team if you want a custom layout for a specific IKEA cabinet configuration.

The FlexFit Series is Inspired LED’s integrated lighting system for slat walls with standard 0.51″ × 0.39″ channels and black backing. It consists of a black silicone lens (SKU 8618) that press-fits into the slat channel and conceals the LED strip, making the installation completely invisible when the lights are off, plus End Caps (SKU 8619-END) and Mid-Caps (SKU 8619-MID) that cover connectors and exit cables for a seamless finish.

The silicone tubing can also conceal TV cables, speaker wire, sconce wiring, and any other low-voltage cable running along the slat wall surface — not just LED strips.

All standard Inspired LED flexible strips in 8mm and 10mm widths are compatible, with two exceptions: Double Row Ultra Bright strips and Outdoor strips are too wide for the channel. For the best visual result, we recommend 12V or 24V COB single-color strips. COB’s continuous chip design produces a smooth, dot-free glow through the translucent black silicone.

Note: color-changing clip connectors (RGB, RGBW, RGBCCT) are too wide for the FlexFit channel. These strip types require direct-soldered cable leads for use with the FlexFit system.

End Caps (SKU 8619-END): Mount at both ends of each strip run. Cover the connector, seal the silicone tip, and block light leakage. Width 0.55″ × Height 0.39″ × Length 1.18″.

Mid-Caps (SKU 8619-MID): Used when a strip terminates mid-slat and the power cable exits through the middle of the wall rather than at the edge. Cover both the connector and the exit cable for a clean mid-wall finish. Width 0.55″ × Height 0.39″ × Length 1.84″.

We accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover, and American Express, processed securely on an SSL-certified page. We also accept Amazon Pay

First, confirm that your billing address matches exactly what your card issuer has on file as the most common cause of declined cards is a billing address mismatch. Make sure the checkbox for ‘ship to billing address’ is correctly set. If the issue persists, call us directly at 480-941-4286, or complete your purchase via Amazon Pay.

Yes. Contractor pricing is based on purchasing volume and is typically established after a few initial large purchases. To inquire, email orders@inspiredled.com with ‘Contractor Pricing’ in the subject line. We recommend placing an initial order first to confirm our products suit your applications before discussing volume pricing.

Yes. Add a note to the Customer Comments section at checkout specifying the cable lengths you need from our available options (4″, 1′, 2′, 3′, 6′, and 12′). You can choose any combination equal to the number of cables included in your kit at no extra charge.

Yes. All Inspired LED components are fully modular and backward-compatible. You can add strips, panels, or accessories at any time, you’ll just need to confirm your existing driver has enough remaining wattage capacity to support the additional load. If not, simply add a second driver for the new zone. Additional components are available individually or in expansion kits on our website.

Spec sheets are available on individual product pages, below the product description. Our Knowledgebase also contains downloadable technical documents, wiring diagrams, and installation guides for all current products. Not finding the materials you need? Email us at orders@inspiredled.com so we can provide additional resources.

A full list of current authorized distributors is available at www.inspiredled.com/distributors

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